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Mitsubishi - Strada - Sales Brochure - - Brochure 3 Pages. Other Manuals 6 Pages. Mitsubishi Engine Electrical Workshop Manual. If any other accessories or their belts were removed for belt replacement, reinstall these components now. Lower the vehicle. Remove the blocks from the wheels. Turn the ignition switch OFF. Disconnect the negative battery terminal, then disconnect the positive battery terminal. Be careful to keep the wrench from connecting the two battery terminals when loosening the nuts that tighten the battery connectors.
If the connectors are difficult to pull off, either use a special puller designed for this purpose or carefully pry the halves of the connectors apart with a prytool. Be careful; the connectors are very soft metal and are easily damaged. Loosen and remove the retaining nuts, remove the battery mounting bracket, and remove the battery. Keep the battery upright at all times. Wear eye protection when working with batteries. Wear heavy rubber gloves if any leakage is evident.
Clean the surface of the battery of grease and dust and inspect it for cracks while it is out of the vehicle.
If the case is cracked, the battery must be replaced. Clean the battery box or tray with a solution of baking soda and water to remove corrosion. Clean the top of the battery with the same solution, rinse it with clear water and dry it with clean rags. If the battery is to be charged while out of the vehicle, place it on wooden blocks or a workbench.
Do not charge the battery while it is sitting on a concrete floor. The concrete will absorb heat and prevent the battery from charging. Reposition the battery in the battery tray and install the mounting brackets and nuts. Make sure the battery is mounted tightly to prevent it from sliding around or vibration damage. Clean the battery terminal posts and cable clamps with a brush designed for this purpose. Connect the cables to the battery terminals. Tighten the connectors securely.
Then coat both connectors with petroleum grease. Disconnect the battery ground cable. Disconnect the retaining clips or screws and pull the distributor cap and seal off the distributor. Position the cap and wires away from the distributor. You may find this procedure easier if you label and remove all spark plug cables and the ignition coil cable from the distributor cap. Matchmark the location of the distributor on the cylinder block.
A good place to do this is near where the mounting bolt passes through the slot. Disconnect and label the vacuum advance line, if so equipped. Disconnect and label the distributor wiring connector. Matchmark the relationship between the tip of the distributor rotor and the distributor body. Later model distributors have alignment marks on the flange, housing and gear.
Aligning these marks is more accurate than aligning the rotor with a homemade mark. Remove the mounting nut or bolt and pull the distributor carefully out of the engine. Note the direction and degree to which the rotor turns as you pull it out. Mark the location of the rotor after it has turned, also.
Remove the old O-ring from the distributor shaft and replace it with a new one before reinstalling the distributor. Position the distributor so that the distributor and block matchmarks are lined up. Position the rotor so that it lines up with the matchmark on the distributor body after the distributor was pulled part way out.
Insert the distributor into the block until the gears at the bottom engage and begin turning the rotor. If there is resistance, turn the rotor back and forth slightly so the gears mesh. Once the gears engage and inserting the distributor causes the rotor to turn, push the distributor in until it seats and the rotor is lined up with the first mark made on the body.
Install the distributor mounting bolt and tighten it finger-tight. Reconnect the vacuum advance line, if so equipped and distributor wiring connector, and reinstall the gasket and cap. Reconnect the negative battery cable. Adjust the ignition timing as described in Engine Performance and Tune-up. Tighten the distributor mounting bolt securely.
If the engine has been rotated while the distributor was out, you will have to first put the engine on No. You can either remove the valve cover or No. Rotate the engine with a socket wrench on the nut at the center of the front pulley in the normal direction of rotation. Either feel for air being expelled forcefully through the spark plug hole or watch for the engine to rotate up to the top center mark without the valves moving both valves will be closed or all the way up.
If the valves are moving as you approach TDC or there is no air being expelled through the plug hole, turn the engine another full turn until you get the appropriate indication as the engine approaches TDC position. Start the distributor into the block with the matchmarks between the distributor body and the block lined up. Turn the rotor slightly until the matchmarks on the bottom of the distributor body and the bottom of the distributor shaft near the gear are aligned.
Insert the distributor all the way into the block. If you have trouble getting the distributor and camshaft gears to mesh, turn the rotor back and forth very slightly until the distributor can be inserted easily. If the rotor is not lined up with the position of No. Align the matchmarks between the distributor and block.
Back to Top 9. See the diagrams for the specific model location. Drain the cooling system. Disconnect the electrical connector from the sensor.
Unscrew the sensor from the intake manifold or cylinder head. Clean the sensor's threads to remove any corrosion, dirt or other contaminants. Apply a liquid sealant to the threads of the sensor and gently screw into its hole. Make sure not to crossthread the sensor. Tighten the sensor to the correct torque see figure and refasten the sensor's wiring.
Reconnect the cable to the negative battery terminal. Oil Pressure Sender See Figures 6 and 7 The oil pressure sender unit is located in the same area on all Mitsubishi engines. It is located on the lower front of the engine, either mounted onto the engine vertically on the oil filter galley or horizontally next to the oil filter itself. Unfasten the electrical connector from the oil pressure sender. Remove the oil pressure sender from the engine. To install: 4. Clean the sensor's threads of all dirt, oil and other contaminants.
Apply a thin film of a liquid sealant to the threads, making sure not to use so much that some could drip into the engine and perhaps block an oil galley. Tighten the oil pressure sensor snugly into its mounting hole. Do not crossthread the sensor. Reconnect the sensor's wiring, and hook the negative battery cable back up to the battery.
Back to Top 8. Check the engine oil level. Dead battery. Open starter circuit, such as: A. Broken or loose battery cables. Inoperative starter motor solenoid. Broken or loose wire from ignition switch to solenoid. Poor solenoid or starter ground. Bad ignition switch.
Defective starter internal circuit, such as: A. Dirty or burnt commutator. Stuck, worn or broken brushes. Open or shorted armature. Open or grounded fields.
Starter motor mechanical faults, such as: A. Jammed armature end bearings. Bad bearings, allowing armature to rub fields.
Bent shaft. Broken starter housing. Bad starter drive mechanism. Bad starter drive or flywheel-driven gear. Engine hard or impossible to crank, such as: A. Hydrostatic lock, water in combustion chamber. Crankshaft seizing in bearings. Piston or ring seizing. Bent or broken connecting rod. Seizing of connecting rod bearings. Flywheel jammed or broken. Starter Spins Freely, Won't Engage 1. Sticking or broken drive mechanism.
Damaged ring gear. See Figure 1 The starter motor is located on either the lower right hand passenger or left hand driver side of the engine, bolted to the transmission housing with two mounting bolts. Removal and installation of the starter motor will require access from both the top and bottom of the engine compartment. Label and disconnect all wiring connectors at the starter. Slowly loosen the two starter mounting bolts until they are loose enough to take out by hand.
Since the starter motor is uncommonly heavy for its size, it is important to support it well with one hand, while removing the two mounting bolts with the other hand. If the starter is not adequately supported, it could fall causing injury. Remove the starter from the vehicle.
To install: 9. Clean the surfaces of the starter motor flange and the flywheel housing where the starter attaches. Reinstall the starter and install the retaining bolts.
Tighten the bolts to ft. Connect the wiring to the starter, making sure the terminals and connectors are clean and tight. Lower the truck to the ground See Figures 2, 3 and 4 Under some circumstances, the solenoid or magnetic switch may fail. This can be indicated by a failure of the starter to engage or produce adequate power.
To test solenoid failure, disconnect the heavy starter motor wire at the M terminal on the solenoid. If possible, use a remote starter control with a switch built into it. If this is not available, touch the wire to the S terminal briefly but do not leave the solenoid engaged for more than 10 seconds. You have proven that the solenoid works if it gets the correct message.
If not, the solenoid should be replaced. You can test the solenoid switch itself by pulling the coil wire out of the distributor cap, having someone engage the starter, and then measuring the voltage at both the B and M terminals of the solenoid M terminal wire connected. If voltage is close to battery voltage at the B terminal, but drops significantly at the M terminal with the starter turning, the solenoid switch is bad and the solenoid unit will have to be replaced.
Remove the starter from the vehicle as previously described. Disconnect the starter motor wire at the M terminal of the solenoid. Remove the screw s from the front end of the solenoid. Disengage the solenoid plunger from the yoke inside the front of the starter and then remove the solenoid and the shims located between the solenoid and the starter front frame. Note the number and position of these shims-they are important and will be needed during reassembly. If you're replacing the solenoid, make sure you get extra shims.
Install the solenoid and tighten all of the mounting screws, making sure the plunger engages the drive yoke. Install the same number of shims.
Make certain the field coil wire is disconnected from the M terminal. Quickly measure in 10 seconds or less the clearance between the front of the pinion gear and the stop in front of it in the starter front frame.
De-energize the solenoid before it overheats. The pinion gear should be pushed back against the drive mechanism when you do this. On reduction gear starters you'll have to measure the distance the pinion gear assembly travels when you shift it back and forth. Use a flat feeler gauge; correct clearance is 0. Change the number of shims between the solenoid and starter frame to correct the clearance if necessary.
Adding shims decreases the clearance, and vice-versa. Disconnect all test wiring hook-ups. Connect the field coil wire to the M terminal and reinstall the starter. Make certain the matching faces of the starter and engine are clean; any grit or grease can act as a shim and change the position of the starter relative to the engine. Brush Replacement See Figures 5 and 6 Brush replacement requires a soldering gun or iron and the ability to use it effectively and neatly. Remove the M terminal nut, and disconnect the field coil large wire at the solenoid.
Remove the two through-bolts and two Phillips screws from the rear starter bracket. Remove the rear bracket. Any overflow can cause binding when the brush is installed 4. Pry the retaining springs back, slide the two brushes out of the brush holder and pull the brush holder off of the rear of the starter. Inspect the brushes for excess wear. There is a manufacturer's symbol usually the Mitsubishi diamonds stamped on the side of each.
If the brush is worn to the bottom of the emblem it should be replaced. To replace the brush, it must be crushed with a pair of pliers to crack it where the wiring pigtail passes through the brush.
Be careful not to damage the wiring pigtail in doing this. Use sandpaper to sand the end of the pigtail smooth. Also sand the outer surface of the last 0. To install: 7. Insert the pigtail into the hole in the new brush until the flat end of the pigtail just reaches the opposite end of the hole in the brush. Insert the wire from the unmarked side of the brush. The brush and pigtail must be brought to just the right temperature for the solder to run in between the brush and pigtail.
Make sure solder does not get onto the outer surface of the brush, as this could cause it to bind in the brush holder later. Install the brushes into the holders. Assemble the rear case of the starter and install bolts and screws. Connect the field coil wire to the M terminal of the solenoid.
Reinstall the starter. Drive Replacement The starter drive may need to be replaced if the starter motor turns but does not engage properly. If, in removing the drive, damage to the starter pinion gear is noted, the flywheel ring gear should also be inspected.
If there is significant damage to the ring gear, the flywheel will have to be replaced, too. When diagnosing apparent starter problems, test the battery first.
A low battery or weak connections can prevent the required amount of current from getting to the starter motor. Also check the solenoid before condemning the starter drive itself; a solenoid that does not engage properly may cause the same symptoms. Remove the starter and remove the solenoid. Remove the 2 through-bolts and 2 screws from the rear bracket.
Pry back the retaining rings and slide the 2 brushes out of the brush holder. Remove the brush holder and the yoke assembly. Remove the washer from the rear of the armature.
Remove the field coil assembly from the front frame. Remove the spring retainer, spring, and spring seat from the starter front frame. Separate the armature from the front bracket by first pulling the armature back out of the front bearing and then shifting the armature so the starter drive is pulled out of the yoke.
Make sure you don't lose the washer located in the front frame. Invert the armature so the starter drive is on top and rest the rear of the armature on a solid surface. Use a deep well socket wrench that is just slightly larger than the diameter of the armature shaft to press the snap-ring collar back.
Install the socket over the top of the shaft and then press it downward or tap it very lightly to force the ring downward. Once the snap-ring is exposed, use snap-ring pliers to open it until it will slide upward, out of the groove and off the shaft. Pull the starter drive and snap-ring collar upward and off the armature shaft.
With the starter disassembled, do not immerse parts in cleaning solvent. The yoke and field coil assembly will be damaged. Wipe the parts with a clean cloth. The overrun clutch is packed with lubricant which will be washed out by any solvent or fluid.
Use a micrometer or caliper to measure the diameter of the commutator. If below the limit, the commutator must be replaced. Lightly coat the front of the armature shaft with high temperature grease. Install the starter drive, snap-ring collar, and snap-ring. Make sure the snap-ring seats in its groove.
Then use a puller to pull the snap-ring collar up and over the snap-ring until the bottom of the collar touches the snap-ring. Place the washer in position in the front frame. Insert the armature through the lever and yoke. Make certain the armature is correctly seated in the bearing. Install the spring seat, spring and spring retainer. Install the field coil assembly to the front frame. Place the washer on the rear of the armature.
Install the brush holder and yoke assemblies and install the brushes. Position the rear bracket and install the 2 screws and 2 through-bolts. Install the solenoid and connect the field coil wire. Remove the starter from the vehicle as described above. Remove the solenoid. Pry the retaining springs back and slide the two brushes out of the brush holder. Pull the brush holder off the rear of the starter. Remove the field coil yoke assembly from the front frame. Remove the armature. Remove the pinion shaft end cover from the center frame.
Measure the clearance between the spacer and center cover and record it. If the pinion shaft is replaced, you'll have to insert or subtract spacer washers until the clearance is the same as that recorded.
Use a screwdriver to remove the retaining clip and then remove the washers. Remove the retaining bolt and then separate the center frame from the front frame.
Remove the spring retainer and spring for the yoke from the front frame. Then remove the washer, reduction gear, shift yoke lever, and two lever supports. Turn the front frame so the pinion gear is at the top and support it securely. Use a socket that fits tightly over the pinion shaft to force the snap-ring collar stop ring downward. Tap the socket lightly at the top or use a press to do this. Use a small prytool to work the snap-ring out of its groove and remove it from the shaft a pair of small snapring pliers will make this procedure much easier.
Remove the collar. Remove the pinion and the spring behind it from the shaft. Pull the lever and pinion shaft assembly out of the rear of the front frame. Replace the pinion if its teeth are damaged check the flywheel ring gear as well. Replace the overrunning clutch if the pinion gear is damaged or if the one-way action of the clutch is not precise. Do not immerse parts in cleaning solvent.
Use a micrometer or caliper to measure the diameter of the commutator and compare to the specifications chart. Install the pinion shaft, spring, gear and stop ring.
Install the snapring and use a puller to seat the stop ring over the snapring. Install the lever and pinion shaft assembly with the reduction gear into the rear of the front frame. Make certain all the springs, spacers and washers are present and in the correct order. When the clearance is correct, install the cover and its small screw.
Fit the center frame onto the shaft and install the washer and retaining clip. Note that the clearance must be corrected by changing the thickness or. Double check the clearance and install or remove shims as necessary.
Install the armature into the yoke field coil. Install the brush holder and install the brushes, making sure they are properly seated and do not bind in the holders.
Install the rear bracket and the small screws. Assemble the motor to the drive and install the through-bolts. Install the solenoid and connect the field coil wire to the M terminal.
This allows compact, efficient design and function. However, because of individual parts costs and the complexity of disassembling and reassembling the alternator, it would be both economically advantageous and time efficient to replace the entire alternator when the regulator malfunctions. All voltage regulators are internal electronic type. The ampere rating is from amps depending on year, model and engine.
The regulated voltage is Have a Type B-C dry chemical fire extinguisher within arm's reach at all times and know how to use it. The heart of this system is a charcoal canister located in the engine compartment. At idle speed, or when the engine is cold, the addition of any fuel vapor to the correct mixture would cause excessive tailpipe emissions.
For this reason, a port in the carburetor or fuel injection system throttle body allows the fuel vapors to be drawn out of the canister only after the throttle has been opened past the normal idle position. If there is no vacuum, the canister purge valve remains closed.
This valve prevents the vacuum signal from going to the canister purge valve until the engine reaches a pre-determined temperature. When the canister purge valve opens, air is drawn under slight vacuum from the air intake.
If the engine exhibits operating problems during warm-up and basic fuel system and engine tune-up adjustments are correct, check the thermo valve for proper operation. Purge Control System See Figure 5 The purge control system controls the flow of the fuel fumes from the evaporative canister. Check the entire system as a whole first, then, if the system exhibits signs of incorrect functioning, check each of its components to find the exact problem with the system.
Disconnect the black vacuum hose 2. Connect a hand vacuum pump to the disconnected vacuum hose. When the engine is cold, the engine is run at 2, rpm and the amount of applied vacuum is When the engine is hot, the engine is idling and the vacuum is the same as above, the vacuum should also not leak. When the engine is hot, the engine rpm is 2, and the same amount of vacuum is applied, the vacuum should leak down.
If the system does not do this, check each component to find the faulty part. When the engine is cold, the engine is idling and Run the engine at 3, rpm and check again. The vacuum should still not leak. Run the engine until hot and then shut the engine OFF. Restart the engine. With the engine hot, idling and the same amount of vacuum applied as above, the vacuum should not leak.
Within 3 minutes of starting the engine, run the engine at 3, rpm and try to apply vacuum. The vacuum should leak. Then, after three minutes have passed, once again apply the vacuum at 3, rpm.
The vacuum should be maintained momentarily, after which it should start to leak. The vacuum will leak continuously if the altitude is 2, m 7, ft. Reconnect the vacuum hose. First check all the hoses and connections for proper attachment, cracks, bends and leaks. Many problems relate simply to poor mechanical connections within the system or restricted hoses. Label each hose before removal; correct re-connection is essential. With the valve off the car, connect a hand vacuum pump to the bottom vacuum nipple of the valve.
Apply a vacuum of The valve should hold the vacuum. Release the vacuum and blow gently into the canister side hose port. With no vacuum applied, no air should pass through the valve. Now draw a vacuum of at least 8 in. Air should flow through the valve. This can be checked in place on the firewall. With the engine off, label and disconnect the two vacuum hoses running to the valve. One hose will have a red stripe on it; take note of which port it was connected to. Remove the electrical connector from the valve.
Connect a hand vacuum pump to the port which contained the hose with the red stripe. Draw a light vacuum on the pump; no vacuum should flow the system holds vacuum. Once the solenoid is energized, vacuum should leak or flow when the hand pump is used. Disconnect the jumpers and the vacuum pump. Use an ohmmeter to check the resistance across the terminals of the solenoid valve. Resistance will change with temperature. Make common sense allowances for temperature variation.
Make sure the vehicle is warmed up. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the throttle body purge hose nipple and connect the hand vacuum pump to the nipple. Start the engine. For all vehicles except those equipped with a pre 2. On pre 2. If there is a problem with the outcome of this test, it is possible that the throttle body port may be clogged and require cleaning.
The 2. The thermo valve blocks or passes vacuum to the purge control valve depending on the coolant temperature. Test after the engine has cooled overnight.
With the engine turned OFF , connect a hand-held vacuum pump to the upper port on the two port valves. Apply vacuum and confirm that the valve leaks or does NOT hold vacuum.
Start the engine and allow it to warm up. When the coolant has reached normal operating temperature, disconnect the appropriate hose as before and repeat the test; the valve should hold vacuum and not leak. Back to Top Disconnect all of the vacuum hoses from the thermo valve. Connect the hand vacuum pump to nipples B , C and D one at a time; plug the nipples not being tested at the time.
Apply vacuum to check the valves condition. In this case the valve should not hold the vacuum. If the valve failed either of these tests it needs to be replaced with a new unit. If it becomes necessary to replace the thermo valve, do so only on a cold motor. Fit the wrench only onto the faceted base of the valve, never on the plastic parts.
Usually located at or near the tank, this valve is both a pressure and suction-sensitive unit. Its purpose is to compensate for the pressure changes within the fuel tank. Since the filler cap is tight enough to be considered sealed, the pressure must be equalized somewhere within the system. When the pressure builds within the tank, such as on a very hot day or after a long period of driving, the valve releases the pressure and vapor into the charcoal canister, thereby venting the tank without raising emissions.
Conversely, should the tank develop a vacuum, the valve will bleed some air and vapor from the canister into the tank.
The control pressures within the valve are pre-set and not adjustable, but a quick check can be performed as follows: 1. Look at the valve and observe which end is toward the tank. Label or diagram the correct position. Remove the valve from the vapor line. It may be necessary to remove other obvious components such as a parking brake cable bracket for access.
Lightly blow through either end of the valve. If air passes after some resistance, the valve is in good condition. Install the valve into the line in the correct direction and secure the clamps. Make certain the lines are firmly seated on the ports before installing the clamps.
Fuel Check Valve Roll-Over Valve Usually mounted near the fuel tank, this simple valve is found in the vapor line coming from the tank to the charcoal canister. Normally the line carries vapor which is easily absorbed and held by the charcoal in the canister.
If the car rolls over, the line would fill with liquid gasoline and exceed the canister's ability to absorb fuel. Once saturated, the canister would allow the liquid fuel to run out, possibly onto the hot surfaces of the engine.
Since an engine fire is the last thing you want when your car is on its head or any other time , the roll-over valve will block the vapor line and keep the fuel out of the canister. This valve rarely, if ever, fails. If it must be checked, unbolt it and remove the hoses. Shake it-if it rattles, it's OK. Since even the simplest job can be done incorrectly, make sure the valve is reinstalled right side up.
Connect the hoses firmly and install the clamps. Charcoal Canister Since the canister cannot be tested on the workbench, it should be checked periodically for cracks, obstructions and proper hose connections. Additionally, the canister should be considered suspect on a carbureted car after any incident of severe engine flooding. It is possible to deliver enough fuel vapor from the carburetor to overcome the capacity of the charcoal.
If a high mileage carburetor is overhauled or replaced, a new charcoal canister should be installed as well. When working around the canister, remember to label or diagram every hose before removal. Vacuum and vapor must flow correctly if the system is to work properly. Cooler combustion reduces the formation of Nitrogen Oxide NO 2 emissions.
No EGR is required when the engine is cold due to lower flame temperatures in the engine. EGR under these conditions would produce rough running so EGR function is cut off either by a thermo valve or by the ECM which is monitoring coolant temperature. Additionally, EGR flow is cut off at warm idle to eliminate any roughness or stumble on initial acceleration.
Cooler combustion temperatures also result in slightly reduced power output. This isn't felt during normal, part-throttle driving and the emission benefits outweigh the slight loss. However, in a wide-open throttle situation a power reduction is not desirable; full power could be the margin of success in a passing or accident avoidance situation. For this reason, EGR function is eliminated when the engine goes on wide-open throttle.
Normally, the vacuum to the EGR valve can overcome the spring tension within the valve and hold it open. When the throttle opens fully, vacuum to the EGR is reduced and the spring closes the valve.
A common symptom of EGR malfunction is light engine ping at part throttle, particularly noticeable under load such as going uphill or carrying several passengers. An EGR valve which fails to close properly can also cause a rough or uneven idle. If the engine is correctly tuned and other common causes vacuum leaks, bad plug wires, etc.
Since the majority of EGR components do not require routine maintenance and should not clog or corrode if unleaded gas is used, you should check all other reasonable causes of a problem before checking this system. Allow the engine to cool overnight. Since the EGR system works differently for warm and cold engines, a completely cold engine is required for testing.
Disconnect the vacuum hose with the green stripe from either the throttle body fuel injected or the base of the carburetor. Attach the end of the hose to vacuum pump. Plug the port from which the hose was removed. Start the engine and attempt to draw a vacuum with the hand pump. The system should NOT hold vacuum with the engine cold and running at idle.
Allow the engine to warm up to normal operating temperature. Using the pump, draw a vacuum of 1. Hg The carbureted system will leak vacuum at warm idle. For carbureted engines, increase the engine speed to rpm. Slowly draw vacuum with the hand pump and observe the vacuum gauge on the pump. The system should leak vacuum until the pump reaches about 1.
Hg, 5. Disconnect the vacuum hose with the green stripe from the EGR valve. Use a T connector to connect the hand vacuum pump into the system and connect the hose back to the EGR. Start the engine and observe the vacuum gauge on the hand pump. Press the accelerator suddenly to race the engine. On a cold engine, there should be no change in the vacuum; normal atmospheric pressure is maintained. Repeat the sudden rpm test while watching the gauge on the pump.
The vacuum should rise temporarily to about 3. Disconnect the T from the system and connect the vacuum pump directly to the EGR valve. Draw a vacuum of at least 9. The quality of the idle should change noticeably, becoming rough or even stalling as the EGR valve opens. The exact vacuum level at which this occurs varies by engine family. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the throttle body EGR vacuum nipple and connect a hand vacuum pump to the nipple.
Start the engine and check to see that, after raising the engine speed by racing the engine, vacuum raises proportionately with the rise in engine speed. If there is a problem with the change in vacuum, it is possible that the throttle body port may be clogged and requires cleaning. Reconnect the vacuum hoses. Label and disconnect the hoses from the valve. Carefully loosen and remove the retaining bolts, remembering that they are probably heat-seized and rusty.
Use penetrating oil freely. Remove the valve and clean the gasket remains from both mating surfaces. Inspect the valve for any sign of carbon deposits or other cause of binding or sticking.
The valve must close and seal properly; the pintle area may be cleaned with solvent to remove soot and carbon. Attach the vacuum pump to the vacuum port on the EGR valve. If the valve has two vacuum ports, pick one and plug the other. Perform the vacuum holding test. Refer to the following information and draw the correct amount of vacuum, making sure it is held. If the correct vacuum cannot be maintained, the valve is leaking internally.
Hg 4 kPa , air passes through at 3. Hg 4 kPa or less, air passes through at 9. Release the vacuum but keep the pump attached to the valve. Devise a way to blow into the valve while drawing a vacuum and reading the gauge on the pump.
Draw a slight vacuum and make sure that the valve is closed your breath does not pass at the specified vacuum. Now increase the vacuum and check that the valve passes air at the specified vacuum.
If the valve is sticky or worn, it may not open properly. A weakened valve will open too soon. If either condition is encountered, replace the valve. Install the valve with a new gasket. Don't forget to remove the plug from the second vacuum port. Tighten the bolts. Connect the hoses and lines to their proper ports. Label and disconnect the vacuum hoses, taking note of the position of each. Remove the wiring harness connector. Connect the hand vacuum pump to the port which contained the vacuum hose with the red stripe green stripe on 2.
Use jumper wires to bridge battery voltage to the terminals of the solenoid. Draw a vacuum with the pump.
When battery voltage is present, the solenoid should hold vacuum. When the voltage is removed, it should not be possible to draw and hold a vacuum. If either condition is not met, the unit must be replaced. The engine families which contain the secondary air system use the purge control temperature thermovalve to enable or trigger the EGR system.
The vacuum valve is checked by removing the hoses label them! If it is necessary to remove the valve, partially drain the coolant until it is below the level of the sensor. Perform this work only on a cold engine. Carefully unscrew the unit, applying wrench force only to the faceted part, never on the plastic.
The California electric EGR temperature sensor must be removed from the car before testing. With the motor cold, carefully disconnect the wiring connector and unscrew the sensor from the EGR valve. Place the sensor in a pan of water. Use a thermometer to measure the water temperature as you heat the pan. Use an ohmmeter to measure the resistance at the terminals of the sensor as the temperature increases.
The sensor should be replaced if there is significant deviation in the resistance. When reinstalling the sensor, tighten it to 8 ft. The pollutants formed from these substances fall into three categories: unburned hydrocarbons HC , carbon monoxide CO , and oxides of nitrogen NOx. The equipment used to limit these pollutants is called emission control equipment. Due to varying state, federal, and provincial regulations, specific emission control equipment may vary by area of sale.
The U. In this section, the term California applies only to cars originally built to be sold in California. Some California emissions equipment is not shared with equipment installed on cars built to be sold in the other 49 states. Models built to be sold in Canada. Back to Top also have specific emissions equipment, although in many cases the 49 State and Canadian equipment is the same.
Both carbureted and fuel injected cars require an assortment of systems and devices to control emissions.
Newer cars rely more heavily on computer management of many of the engine controls. This eliminates the many of the vacuum hoses and linkages around the engine. In the lists that follow, remember that not every component is found on every car. The carburetor meters fuel according to the volumetric flow rate of air and supplies the resultant mixture to the engine. Therefore, even if the carburetor is set for optimum air-fuel rate at low altitude, the mixture becomes too rich at high altitude since the air is less dense at high altitudes.
The system also advances the ignition timing by a fixed amount to reduce CO and HC emission and to secure driveability at high altitudes. Therefore, the vacuum switching valve and HAC's additional bleed air passage remain closed and bleed air is not supplied to the carburetor.
At high altitudes, the HAC closes and the intake manifold vacuum is applied to the vacuum switching valve, HAC's additional bleed air passage and distributor. As a result, the vacuum switching valve and HAC's additional bleed air passage are opened to supply bleed air to the carburetor.
At the same time, the distributor advances the ignition timing. See Figures 2 and 3. A vacuum pump capable of producing more than 10 in. Connect a timing light to the engine. Remove the air filter. Disconnect the vacuum hoses black, red stripe, black from the carburetor primary emulsion well bleed nipple, secondary emulsion well bleed nipple and the jet air nipple; plug the nipples.
Connect a hand vacuum pump to the vacuum hoses, one hose at a time, and check air tightness the vacuum should NOT leak while running the engine at idle. Connect the vacuum hoses back to their original positions. Run the engine at idle and check ignition timing. While the engine is idling, disconnect the vacuum hose yellow stripe from the HAC and put a finger at the hose end to check that vacuum is felt.
Connect everything back to its original position and remove the timing light. Connect a hand vacuum pump to the vacuum hoses, one hose at a time, and check the air tightness the vacuum SHOULD leak while running the engine at idle. Apply vacuum and check that it leaks and does not hold steady. Disconnect the hand pump and plug the vacuum hose back onto its nipple. Check to see that the vacuum holds steady.
Apply vacuum and check that it holds steady. Check to see that the vacuum leaks or does not hold steady. Reconnect the vacuum lines to the HAC. When disconnecting the vacuum hose, put a mark on the hose so that it may be reconnected to its original position. Remove the vacuum switching valve. Connect a hand vacuum pump to the black vacuum nipple of the VSV. Hg 53 kPa and check air tightness. Blow air lightly in from the carburetor air bleed side nipple. With the applied vacuum at 8 in.
Hg 27 kPa or less, the air should NOT blow through the valve. With the applied vacuum at 9. Hg 34 kPa or more, the air should blow through. Check Valve A vacuum pump capable of producing more than 10 in. Remove the check valve. Connect a hand vacuum pump to the check valve and check the air tightness. When the pump is attached to the dark blue nipple, the vacuum should leak. With the pump attached to the white nipple, the vacuum should hold steady and not leak. If the component fails either of these tests, it needs to be replaced.
Carburetor Bleed Air Passage A vacuum pump capable of producing more than 10 in. Disconnect the vacuum hoses from the air nipple, the primary well bleed nipple, and the secondary well bleed nipple and connect a hand vacuum pump to the nipple. Apply vacuum to each nipple one after the other, to see that the vacuum leaks and does not build up inside the carburetor.
Plug the vacuum hoses which are not being currently tested. If vacuum builds up, have the carburetor disassembled and checked. System Inspection A vacuum pump capable of producing more than 10 in.
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